Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Black Forest Trail

The Black Forest Trail is a 42 mile loop trail in north central PA located near Pine Creek Gorge (PA Grand Canyon) and nearby the West Rim Trail (see our older blog post). It has almost constant elevation changes, but rewards your efforts with countless vistas. The trail starts at a pine plantation in Slate Run and follows an old railroad grade. Narrow-gauge railroads were first used in the Pine Creek area to bring timber to local sawmills. There are also several later lines that were used for carrying slate, shale, flagstone and coal from these valleys. After a few miles descending and ascending gently, the trail became a dug out footpath that eventually led us through an old flagstone quarry. We enjoyed the expansive views of the valley and followed the trail along switchbacks through huge walls of stone. The trail ascended steeper and later passed through another, but smaller, quarry. After gaining about 1000 feet the trail stayed mostly level for most of the afternoon. We followed the ridgeline through mixed forest for 5 miles as the path began to drop into Red Run. We reached the stream and followed alongside for a few more miles before setting up camp. All of our hikes lately have involved camping at higher elevations, with little or no water. It was nice to finally have limitless water to cook and wash up with. As we were setting up, thunder was rolling in although the skies were clear. Being in a valley hid the darkening clouds from us. I was able to get a fire, although everything was very damp while Britt got dinner going. After a meal full of delicious rice, beans and chicken (lots of protein), the rain finally started to fall. It only got heavier as the night went on. We awoke several times during the night to lightning and thunder from a storm that seemed to be parked on top of us. Thankfully, it was barely a drizzle when we woke up and packed our things. A nice breakfast before hitting the trail and we were off. Day one was relatively short at 7.2 miles, mostly because of a late start. We knew we had to pick up the pace and cover ground from then on. The day started with a steep climb out of the hollow and kept climbing for mile after mile. Funny how miles seem so much shorter in a car! After ascending for almost the entire morning we topped out. As we continued walking and catching our breath, I glanced down to realize I was inches away from a large rattlesnake! I let out a loud yelp and Brittany lunged backwards with a scream. After composing myself I shot a video and gave it a moment get off the trail. It finally disappeared, but only shortly. A few paces down the trail it reappeared from a thick batch of Rhododendrons and refused to leave our path. It was impossible to go around due to the thick bush, and throwing rocks did nothing to scare off the snake. Instead it became aggressive. Eventually, I threw a rock at its head and finished him off. I hate to kill anything, but it was making itself a serious situation. After that ordeal, we still had lots of miles to cover for the day. We watched our feet much more closely as we followed winding trails though thick mountain laurel, pine and old hardwood areas. Then several more vistas; so many that I actually stopped taking pictures. A few stretches followed old logging roads, but thankfully hardly more than a few hundred feet. At one mile point we passed a few old leased camps. Beginning in 1913, quarter-acre, permanent camp sites could be leased for 10 year periods. There are still 4500 leased camp sites in the PA State Forest System. The trail continues along a section once used by the Tidewater Pipeline Co. when they were trying to cut into Rockefeller’s Standard Oil Co. monopoly. Under our feet, the area continues to be used, but now for fiber optic communications. After this stretch came my favorite section- the few miles through open grassland on the ridge above the Dyer Branch stream. Eventually, we spent the night near a section of this stream. This time, the rain didn’t hold off quite as long. It was thundering before we even made it to camp. We had our tent set up just before the first water fell. This storm unfortunately would not pass for the remainder of the hike. We quickly ate dinner and stayed as dry as possible under our shelter. It stayed dry except for a few leaks, largely due to the fact that our tent has been in constant use for over a decade. We did our best to sleep and woke in the morning to a downpour. Trying to keep our things dry became pointless and we packed up. After evaluating maps and plans, we decided to cut off a few miles, and another night under relentless rain by taking a shortcut. We would be in our car by this night. In times like these, it’s worth the investment in a good map. The trail that would serve this purpose turned out to be the Baldwin Gas Line Trail. This is a very interesting trail of its own accord. Our landmark to turn off the BFT and onto this route was an old stone shelter with a metal roof. It was once the pump house for water used to cool engines on the Tidewater Oil line in the 1880’s. It took about 2 miles on this path before rejoining the BFT and saving us about 10 miles. At this point it was about lunchtime and the rain had only gotten heavier. The remaining miles to the car were strenuous, but we were motivated. At one point we were walking on a carpet of pine needles and caught a brief glimpse of a beautiful white owl. The moment was gone before we could snap a picture. As we climbed and descended, and climbed again, I pondered to myself how it is possible for clouds to contain this much hellish rain and continue to float in-air. Thankfully, some of the most interesting sights were at the end of the trail. We made our final descent down the spine of a very exposed ridge. The relentless rain and humidity developed a thick fog throughout the valley, and made for some interesting photographs. Anticipation made the miles seem longer as we approached the car. Unfortunately, we missed one of our final turns and walked the remaining distancing the torrential down pour on what we recognized to be the road we drove in on. The rain had drenched everything, even my change of clothes I was planning to drive home and stop for dinner in. We had few options but thankfully a clerk at the local general store offered to dry my gear in their personal dryer. After putting on dry clothes we felt human again. And dinner never tasted so good. This was one of those trips that are better as a story told than an actual experience. We have been consistently lucky with the weather on past trips, it couldn’t last forever. Enjoy this video...